Friday, April 21, 2006
Sorata Option - Cycling and Hiking
So much to tell, so little time.
Copacobana was so different from our experience in 2004. Our arrival co-incided with Easter and the biggest festival of the year. Many people had done penance either riding the 140kms from La Paz or walking 40kms of the way. The beach was crowded with tents (although the water temp in Titicaca was only 9 degrees as the lake is at 3800m). The queues for the blessing of the cars stretched throughout town. The blessings themselves are a strange mixture of beliefs. Cars are decorated with garands of flowers before a priest sprinkles holy water from a plastic bucket over the engine and car. Incense is wafted through the vehicle and the passengers receive a blessing. Then fireworks are let off in front of the car and a bottle of beer sprayed over it.
Penance done and absolution granted, the locals hunker down to some serious partying that makes the Mount at New Year seem tame. Drunks everywhere, the beach, streets and local hills covered in litter and a strong stench of urine and raw sewage. Despite warnings at the hotel we mostly felt safe, but it was not the same lovely quiet village we experienced last time.
The Utama Hotel was comfortable and everyone enjoyed the chance to socialise in the central courtyard.
Eleven of us left Copacobana to cycle part of the jorney to Sorata. Gravity provided really excellent bikes and we were soon heading down hill to lake Titicaca on rough gravel roads that were to proove to be the best we rode on. A short stretch along the lake side was very picturesque as we cycled through the pueblos and admired the pristine waters (a great contrast to Puno). Then we were gradually introduced to a series of rolling hills that got steeper and steeper. This is a relative term as the altitude made any hill a challenge. I am sure we would have hardly noticed these undulations at sea level. The roads were rough clay and often partly washed out, despite this being the primary acces to several villages. There were several opportunities for down hill blasts and I was lucky to stay on my bike after attempting a cople of washouts at speeds beyond my ability - the price was a soaking in the deep puddles that followed.
At the top of one hill our ears were assulted with loud music blaring out of the local village, 500 m away. The pueblo was having a party and everyone was out on the edge of the soccer pitch that constituted the plaza. Huge quantities of beer were being drunk and we were welcomed with clapping and cries of encouragement.
We had lunch of trout at Tiquina before settling down to a 90 minute drive to a pass at 4200. From here we were to ride the 20 odd kms and 1600m of descent to Sorata. It was bitterly cold at the pass and I was shivering despite full storm gear as we prepared the bikes. Thick mist was a further disincentive and in the end only 4 of us (Gerry, Karen Anton and I) started the ride. The road is being upgraded and we had to pass several large trucks lumbering down the hill. The mist was very thick, as was the mud and we were frequently cycling at the limits of our abilities. Our guide, Gee, rode in front and would whistle if he saw a car coming. Often we only saw the car at the last minute. It was an incredibly exhilarating journy, particularly when the mist cleared and we could increase the pace. Bikes were substantially faster than the following vehicles, although they caught us up on the climb back up to Sorata from the last river. We arrived in the village just on dark and were offered a lift for the final 15 minutes to our hotel (Altai Oasis). Feeling very pleased with ourselves we elected to ride the remaining distance, sans lights in steady rain. The last 15 minutes seemed to take forever as it was very dark with only the occassional outine of a wheel rut and several nasty (to us) uphills. The four riders were very pleased with themselves and totally covered in mud. It was a really great effort from Karen who had never riden a mountain bike in anger before. For those in the van and jeep it was probably an uncomfortable and long slog.
On Tuesday we all went for a walk to the San Pedro cave. This was about 24kms return with about 300m of climb. A great effort by Mary and Gill who refused a ride on the way back. The cave itself has a lake (where I retained the wally hat by stepping into it) and lots of bats.
Yesterday Owen, Gerry, Anton and I attempted to walk to Laguna Glacier. The locals told us we were loco, but we convinced a guide to take us and had a great walk on a brilliantly fine day. Owen and Gerry elected to wait at about 4,500m while Anton and I continued to the lake. We were certainly feeling the altitude by the time we got to 5,000m but the views were well worth it. The place gets it´s name from a lake where the glacier terminates in a 20m wall. Great views of lake titicaca and of Sorata 2400m below.
Having a quiet day today as we prepare for the Jungle tomorrow. We have a 3 hour jeep ride to a pass at 4,800m before a bike descent to about 1000m. We may have to clear a couple of slips to get the support vehicles through. I suspect there will be more very tired bodies by night fall.
Morale is incredibly good. Last night the climbers arrived looking absolutely shattered. Most have had a good nights sleep and look human again today.
It may be a few days before the next post.
Ross
Copacobana was so different from our experience in 2004. Our arrival co-incided with Easter and the biggest festival of the year. Many people had done penance either riding the 140kms from La Paz or walking 40kms of the way. The beach was crowded with tents (although the water temp in Titicaca was only 9 degrees as the lake is at 3800m). The queues for the blessing of the cars stretched throughout town. The blessings themselves are a strange mixture of beliefs. Cars are decorated with garands of flowers before a priest sprinkles holy water from a plastic bucket over the engine and car. Incense is wafted through the vehicle and the passengers receive a blessing. Then fireworks are let off in front of the car and a bottle of beer sprayed over it.
Penance done and absolution granted, the locals hunker down to some serious partying that makes the Mount at New Year seem tame. Drunks everywhere, the beach, streets and local hills covered in litter and a strong stench of urine and raw sewage. Despite warnings at the hotel we mostly felt safe, but it was not the same lovely quiet village we experienced last time.
The Utama Hotel was comfortable and everyone enjoyed the chance to socialise in the central courtyard.
Eleven of us left Copacobana to cycle part of the jorney to Sorata. Gravity provided really excellent bikes and we were soon heading down hill to lake Titicaca on rough gravel roads that were to proove to be the best we rode on. A short stretch along the lake side was very picturesque as we cycled through the pueblos and admired the pristine waters (a great contrast to Puno). Then we were gradually introduced to a series of rolling hills that got steeper and steeper. This is a relative term as the altitude made any hill a challenge. I am sure we would have hardly noticed these undulations at sea level. The roads were rough clay and often partly washed out, despite this being the primary acces to several villages. There were several opportunities for down hill blasts and I was lucky to stay on my bike after attempting a cople of washouts at speeds beyond my ability - the price was a soaking in the deep puddles that followed.
At the top of one hill our ears were assulted with loud music blaring out of the local village, 500 m away. The pueblo was having a party and everyone was out on the edge of the soccer pitch that constituted the plaza. Huge quantities of beer were being drunk and we were welcomed with clapping and cries of encouragement.
We had lunch of trout at Tiquina before settling down to a 90 minute drive to a pass at 4200. From here we were to ride the 20 odd kms and 1600m of descent to Sorata. It was bitterly cold at the pass and I was shivering despite full storm gear as we prepared the bikes. Thick mist was a further disincentive and in the end only 4 of us (Gerry, Karen Anton and I) started the ride. The road is being upgraded and we had to pass several large trucks lumbering down the hill. The mist was very thick, as was the mud and we were frequently cycling at the limits of our abilities. Our guide, Gee, rode in front and would whistle if he saw a car coming. Often we only saw the car at the last minute. It was an incredibly exhilarating journy, particularly when the mist cleared and we could increase the pace. Bikes were substantially faster than the following vehicles, although they caught us up on the climb back up to Sorata from the last river. We arrived in the village just on dark and were offered a lift for the final 15 minutes to our hotel (Altai Oasis). Feeling very pleased with ourselves we elected to ride the remaining distance, sans lights in steady rain. The last 15 minutes seemed to take forever as it was very dark with only the occassional outine of a wheel rut and several nasty (to us) uphills. The four riders were very pleased with themselves and totally covered in mud. It was a really great effort from Karen who had never riden a mountain bike in anger before. For those in the van and jeep it was probably an uncomfortable and long slog.
On Tuesday we all went for a walk to the San Pedro cave. This was about 24kms return with about 300m of climb. A great effort by Mary and Gill who refused a ride on the way back. The cave itself has a lake (where I retained the wally hat by stepping into it) and lots of bats.
Yesterday Owen, Gerry, Anton and I attempted to walk to Laguna Glacier. The locals told us we were loco, but we convinced a guide to take us and had a great walk on a brilliantly fine day. Owen and Gerry elected to wait at about 4,500m while Anton and I continued to the lake. We were certainly feeling the altitude by the time we got to 5,000m but the views were well worth it. The place gets it´s name from a lake where the glacier terminates in a 20m wall. Great views of lake titicaca and of Sorata 2400m below.
Having a quiet day today as we prepare for the Jungle tomorrow. We have a 3 hour jeep ride to a pass at 4,800m before a bike descent to about 1000m. We may have to clear a couple of slips to get the support vehicles through. I suspect there will be more very tired bodies by night fall.
Morale is incredibly good. Last night the climbers arrived looking absolutely shattered. Most have had a good nights sleep and look human again today.
It may be a few days before the next post.
Ross
# posted by Ross @ 6:20 AM 
